2023 Nepal Photo Workshop

View Original

Trekking to Everest Base Camp. Day 1-6

Here is the first of three articles written by our own Doug Ingram, who is our workshop leader, on what to expect when trekking to Everest Base Camp. Doug has spent quite a bit of time in the Khumbu and summited Everest the classic way (with one Sherpa, our own Phinjo Sherpa who is our workshop lead Sherpa & organizer) in 2013. This post covers days 1 to 6.

Day 1 - Fly to Lukla (Altitude – 9290 ft), hike to Phakding (Altitude - 8550 ft ) Surprisingly, the trek begins by descending to the river at Phakding. The hike on this day will take about 4 hrs. and will help us galvanize as a group, adjust to the terrain, and get to know our guides. total distance - 4.5 miles

Day 2 -  hike to Namche (11,350 ft). Initially we follow the river, then cross several more suspension bridges including a spectacular one before beginning the ascent to Namche Bazaar. At about half-way up the ascent to the bazaar, a gap in the trees allows us to see Everest for the first time. If the weather is clear, the top and the southwest ridge will be just visible behind the long Lhotse-Nuptse ridge. A plume can often be seen stretching away from the summit. 

Namche is the most prosperous and the largest town in the Khumbu. The peaks of Thamserku (21,810 ft), Kwangde Ri (20,300 ft) and Khumbila (18,725 ft) surround the natural bowl in which Namche sits. This day is longer, and usually the trip takes about 6-7 hrs. including a lunch stop, the distance = 4.3 miles.

 Historically, this time of year, in and around Namche the low Fahrenheit temperature at night would be in the low teens and the daytime highs would be in the low 30’s

Day 3 – Active rest day. Casual hike to Everest View Hotel for tea and an awesome view of Everest and Lhotse. Those who wish can continue the hike to Khumjung for lunch and visit the monastary and Sir Edmund Hillary school. Then onward to the American Himalayan Foundation funded Khunde Hospital. Those who choose to rest in Namche can explore the museum, market and shopping opportunities as well as the American Himalayan Foundation Dental clinic.

Day 4 -  Hike to Phortse (12,960 ft) – After about three hours of walking, we reach the settlement of Mong-La (12,800 Ft), located on a ridge above the Dudh Koshi River and have lunch. After lunch we hike down and cross the river. From here we climb for about 40 min to our high point of the day at 13,200 ft, then descend into Phortse, a very quiet beautiful farming village nestled in the foothills of the mountains. We will tour the Khumbu Climbing Center, where most Sherpa learn and improve their climbing skills. Phortse is off the main trekking circuit and therefore more resembles an authentic Sherpa village. Today’s estimated time is 6:30 hours, including the lunch stop. The distance = 4.25 miles.

 Day 5 – Hike to Pangboche (13,070 ft) – uphill out of Phortse, with great views looking back at the village. We will have wonderful views looking across the Imja Khohe Valley to Tengboche, and the old monastery there, plus a clear view of Thamserku, 21,810 ft, rising from the valley behind Tengboche. It is 3+ hours to Pangboche, so we may have time to visit the monastery, one of the oldest in the Himalayas, over 400 years old. Hopefully the Lama is in and we can receive blessings for our trek. Pangboche is inhabited by Sherpas, and is mostly surrounded by farmed fields that grow vegetables for the lodges. We will continue on to Dingboche (14,300 ft). One of the characteristics of the hike to Dingboche is the miles of stone walls, built using the stones of different sizes that cover the entire valley. The stones are removed to plow the fields and end up piled one over the other creating miles of walls. The distance is 3.4 miles, estimated time 4:30 hours.

Day 6 - Explore Dingboche and surrounding area as we continue our acclimatization. Dingboche is nestled into a small protected valley, called Chukhung Valley, surrounded by imposing snow-capped mountains. The population is less than 300, and the village relies heavily on tourists with lodges comprising most of the buildings in the village. One option for our active rest (day 7) is to hike up the ridge to the north for additional panoramic views. Near the top of the ridge, on clear days you can see Mt. Makalu, the 5th highest peak in the world!

  Historically, this time of year, in and around Pangboche and Dingboche the low Fahrenheit temperature at night would be in the single digits and the daytime highs would be in the low 30’s. There is a chance of snow and possibly rain. Great photo weather!