Trekking to Everest Base Camp. Day 7-14
Day 7 - Stay in Dingboche – We are above tree line, so we lack the greenery of the villages below, but there is plenty of photo options within the village and it’s inhabitants ( human and animal ). Today’s objective is fuel up, hydrate, rest and build red blood cells as we acclimate in preparation for the upcoming altitude gains.
Day 8 - Dingboche to Lobuche (16,100 ft) - We see a different side of Ama Dablam, the gloriously shaped mountain that has framed so many of the views so far. At Thukla the trail goes UP and It’s here that we find the sacred memorials to those who have been lost on the mountain over the years. It is a poignant setting with stunning scenery while we contemplate and honor the memory of these lost climbers from around the world. From this point, it’s arelatively gradual incline to our stop for the night at Lobuche. The weather here and onward to Everest Base Camp (EBC) would be just above 0 at night and in the 20’s during the day (Fahrenheit).
Day 9 - Lobuche to EBC (17,850) and back to Gorak Shep (16,900 ft) - The hike out of Lobuche climbs steadily along the Khumbu Glacier. The climbing isn't long, steep, or intense, but the elevation means we take it slowly 😉 Gorak Shep has about a half-dozen buildings that collectively make up the last tiny outpost before EBC. We have been hiking for about 3 hours at this point, with about 2 more hours until EBC. It’s monochromatically desolate here. Stark. Empty. Featureless. Boulders the size of small cars litter an alien landscape, where there’s hardly a sign of life, but it has its own unique beauty. One can see all the way down to the Khumbu Icefall (one of the first obstacles the climbers of Everest must conquer on their way to the summit). The trail reaches the top of the ridge and follows the mountain's spine due north towards the cul-de-sac at the end of the glacier. Walking along the now flattening out trail, we see something that we haven't seen since all the way back before Pangboche – Mt Everest. The dark black peak pokes up between Khumbutse and Lhotse, inspiring awe and insignificance (2.17 vertical miles higher than we are now). The trail slopes downwards for a descent from the spine out to the glacier. EBC is marked with piles of stones, dozens of strings of prayer flags, and a few “Everest Base Camp” signs with dates and elevation. After some time at this historic site, we head back. With the exception of the climb off the glacier and back up to the trail, the way back is easy-going and mostly flat or downhill to Gorak Shep
Day 10 – Gorak Shep – Kala Pathar (18,635 ft) – Periche (14,340) – To the surprise of many people you can’t see the summit of Everest from EBC. So where are the best views of Everest on an EBC trek? On top of Kala Pathar, which is our first objective today. After cresting a ridge about a third of the way up, the summit comes into view. As you approach the summit it is a scramble through the scree towards the prayer flags and cairns on top. Weather dependent, we have a clear and unobstructed view of the highest mountain on Earth. It takes only a little more than an hour to rock skate/ski down to Gorak Shep. Then we are off toPeriche, a slight diversion from the main trail this little gem will be our stop for the evening. We first pass back through Lobuche, where the path splits in two – one trail up to Dingboche and ours down towards Periche.
Day 11 – Periche to Tengboche- You will see the dense forests and plenty of greenery. Enjoy the scenic natural beauty of the Khumbu. The best thing through this passage along the Imja Khol river is the white peaks. If the weather is beautiful, you will be able to see the peaks covered with snow glittering in the sunlight. Today is a long day with lots of ups and downs but it is at lower altitude. We pass through the large village of Pangboche and you definitely get the sense that you are coming back to civilization. We follow the path down and cross an exciting bridge with the boiling, roaring Imja Khol beneath your feet. Then climb through the rhododendron forest to Deboche. A gradual climb takes us to the village of Tengboche. In the village is an important Buddhist monastery, Tengboche Monastery, which has the largest gompa in the Khumbu region. Tengboche also has a panoramic view of the peaks of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse and Ama Dablam. Tenzing Norgay, who with Sir Edmund Hillary were the first to summit Everest, was sent as a youngster to Tengboche Monastery to be a monk.
Day 12 - Hike to Namche – This hike will give you a chance to see some spectacular natural beauty (dense forests framed by snow-white peaks). You will remember this section for the rest of your life! After a steep descent out of Tengboche there is not too much up and down terrain, so enjoy the spectacular scenery. We will arrive early enough to see some new sites in Namche such as the Sherpa museum and the Tenzing Norgay statue as well as be captivated by the people and businesses of this village, the commercial center of the Khumbu valley.
Day 13 - Namche to Lukla - This may have been the same path we trod at the start of the trek, but there were still new things we hadn’t seen the first time around. It is 1:45 to Monjo, where we exit Sagarmatha National Park and 2 hours more to Phakding. After lunch we set off for the final push to Lukla – remember how the path was downhill out of Lukla 😉, now it is uphill, and remember the look on trekkers faces when we were heading in the opposite direction over a week ago! Anyway, the first 1:15 out of Phakding is OK, however from then on it is 1:45 of steady uphill walking.
Day 14 (15) - Lukla – Weather permitting, we are off early in the morning (after pastries at the spectacular bakery at Lukla airport) for the flight to Kathmandu. Or if the weather doesn’t cooperate then enjoy your final day in the Khumbu Valley. Lukla has a variety of shops and lodges catering to tourists, climbers, and trekkers, providing western-style meals and your last chance for souvenirs from the region.